Fine Jewelry by Francis & Linelle Lynch

We made this 18 karat white and yellow gold ring for a natural untreated Gota de Aceite Columbian emerald (1.18ct) with two flanking princess cut diamonds (0.72ctw) and six full cut diamonds (0.44ctw). The diamonds are all ideal cut with DE color grade and VVS and flawless clarity grade.

Most (99.99%) emeralds need to be clarity enhanced to be marketable. The most benign treatment is oiling which hides the inclusions but is the least permanent. The worst enhancement is an epoxy-like glue that is used to fill cracks found in emeralds which will discolor when exposed to sunlight. Both of these treatments are supposed to be disclosed.

Of the 0.01% of emeralds that are fine enough to not need clarity enhancement, only one in one thousand will exhibit a phenomenon know as Gota de Aceite which is Spanish for "drop of oil." This emerald looks like green honey, meaning that the color roils when you wear this ring. Most Columbian dealers have stopped using the term Gota de Aceite because of the negative connotations of the clarity enhancements I mentioned above in favor of the "butterfly wing effect" (efecto aleta de mariposa).

This 1 in a 100,000 emerald has a very slightly bluish green hue, very lightly included clarity and very good cut and polish. The ring is designed with a demi-bezel to protect the emerald while allowing the flanking princess cuts to sparkle through the sides. For more info go to GIA's Free PDF download at http://www.gia.edu/research-resources/gems-gemology/issues/fall2008-contents/fall2008-article5.html .

This emerald connoisseur ring is in a Private Collection.